Evaluations

The EEC Directive 93/35 establish two main requirements for cosmetics: the safety assessment must be included in all the cosmetic dossiers, while proofs of the ascribed cosmetic effects shall complete the dossiers. For the safety assessment, the general toxicological profile of the ingredients, their chemical structure and the exposure level are taken into account. Innocuity tests on the finished product may be needed in order to perform and even to complete the safety assessment. As animal tests are being banned, the remaining possibilities are in-vitro and/or in-vivo human test, such as the HET-CAM method and patch-test on volunteers. As far as the efficacy evaluations are concerned, even if the law is not completely clear at this point, these are considered necessary in some cases. For instance, when they are not clearly or logically understandable from the ingredient properties and, in particular, when scientific literature is not supporting significantly the label claim. Various instrumental techniques can be applied: pH-metry, sebometry, corneometry, elasticity, skin barrier (TEWL), etc. Moreover, sensory analysis may be necessary, as it is the only method to measure how a product is perceived by the consumers.