Hair: fibre cleansing or scalp treatments?

The new challenge lies in complex formulations, which are compatible with highly functional actives and are very mild and respectful of both hair and scalp. Without appropriate cosmetic care, inflammation of the scalp may be developed; skin disorders may finally lead to hair problems or hair loss. Among the many possible formulation strategies, cosmetics for damaged hair rely on substances that deposit onto the hair (by dilution or physico-chemical affinity), where they can form a protective, natural-looking film. These cosmetics repair the hair by modifying the superficial proprieties of keratin structures, which have been in turn modified by the very frequent washings or by rather aggressive treatments. The recent formulation of very glossing products is meant as an easily perceivable remedy to this drawback. They are supposed to be used after shampooing in order to impart brightness to the hair. Moreover, researches are being carried out on new, highly safe and spreadable film formers. Needs for interaction with hair wide surfaces has led to research in the field of easy spreading emollients. The application of new branched chain hydrogenated polydecenes is described and examples of their practical application are also reported.