Innocuity evaluations of saccharose esters

Emulsifiers are an important category of cosmetic ingredients, deeply studied in their foundamental function. Even though some of their activities, such as the cutaneous interaction, the absorption modulation of active substances (up to the desired level) and the effect of uncontrolled penetration into the deeper layers of the epidermis of some irritating substances are often under-evaluated. Their characteristics also determine the spreading power and the residual emolliency of the applied products and act as regulators of the "limit stratum" value. The interactions between the emulsifiers and the skin can be of great importance for the respect or the alteration of the barrier function and in its recovering after the application of surfactants which destroy the hydrolipidic film. A new group of emulsifiers of natural origin (deriving from saccharose, fatty acids and oils), of food grade purity, has been studied through a number of in vitro and in vivo tests in order to check their innocuity but also their respect of cutaneous homoeosthasis.