Since ever, oils have played in technology and social sciences a blend
of roles, a polymorph mix of functionality, interaction with substrate
and aesthetic performances. In make-up products this is specially true.
Different sets of performances are required to oils in the various
categories of finished make-up products. Interactions with pigments,
layering effect, optical performances, structure properties and sensory
perceptions are the field where they play their key role. In powder
make-up products for the face, oils are always been used at a very low
level, that is from 2 to 10 %. Also in compact eye-shadow, wetting of
powders by the oil must be low. But, how to obtain an easy and
homogeneous distribution of a little amount (10 to 20%) of a viscous
fluid onto a large mass of powdery material? Dispersing and milling
equipment are described. Oils in lipstick formulations means
accomplishing three main needs: ‘wax swelling’, pigment wetting, gloss.
In make-up emulsions, the vehicle becomes suddenly more important than
pigments, both in terms of formulation complexity and for the standard
types of pigment used in mascaras and foundations. Moreover, the pigment
amount in the formula is low (8-10%). Problem solving oils are welcome
in this picture, as they help finding new ways to improve product
properties.