Oils and their functionality in make-up products

Since ever, oils have played in technology and social sciences a blend of roles, a polymorph mix of functionality, interaction with substrate and aesthetic performances. In make-up products this is specially true. Different sets of performances are required to oils in the various categories of finished make-up products. Interactions with pigments, layering effect, optical performances, structure properties and sensory perceptions are the field where they play their key role. In powder make-up products for the face, oils are always been used at a very low level, that is from 2 to 10 %. Also in compact eye-shadow, wetting of powders by the oil must be low. But, how to obtain an easy and homogeneous distribution of a little amount (10 to 20%) of a viscous fluid onto a large mass of powdery material? Dispersing and milling equipment are described. Oils in lipstick formulations means accomplishing three main needs: ‘wax swelling’, pigment wetting, gloss. In make-up emulsions, the vehicle becomes suddenly more important than pigments, both in terms of formulation complexity and for the standard types of pigment used in mascaras and foundations. Moreover, the pigment amount in the formula is low (8-10%). Problem solving oils are welcome in this picture, as they help finding new ways to improve product properties.