Problem solving emollients: hydrogenated polydecenes

The key role of oils in cosmetic formulations is due to the complex blend of required properties: innocuity, skin feel, low physiological impact, stability, spreadability, compatibility with cosmetic ingredients, functional performances, application to many physical forms, cost, reproducibility. A new category of hydrocarbons, hydrogenated polydecenes, performs most of these properties at high levels. Stability characteristics, solubility with common oils, emulsification possibilities, pigment wetting power, SPF increase and dispersion properties are described. The low diffusion into the deeper layers of the skin is a fundamental key to the safety of these ingredients and the application to sun protection products, while their molecular structure accounts for the physical behaviour and functional performances, like moisturization and anti-wrinkle effect. The easiness of emulsification and the high dispersion power together with silky to velvety feel, are very useful properties for new formulation trends