Combining skin cleansing with skin care is one of the main aims in
modern cosmetics. The most common surfactant, sodium lauryl ether
sulphate, has frequently been used in combination with anti-irritant
agents in order to reduce its lipid-solvent effects. Magnesium or
alkanolamine salt of the same surfactant have been claimed to perform
detersion with lower irritation. A new ‘colloidal precipitation’
surfactant, formed by hydro-soluble zinc alkyl ether sulphate, shows
very low irritation potential both alone and in combination with other
tensioactives. Moreover, it has additional properties, bound to its
capability to inhibit bacterial growth: it strongly reduces body odour
without the use of common bactericides. Evaluations of its main cosmetic
properties are described, together with the significant formulation
requirements. The use of ‘colloidal deposition’ cations, opened by this
new Zinc surfactant, offers elegant and complex formulation potential,
allowing interesting blends and tailor-made cutaneous effects for
sensitive skin and for restitution cleansing at low pH.