The dermatological uses of Azelaic acid are related to its
anti-sebhorreic, anti-mycotic and anti-acne properties. However, its
limits (insolubility, tacky feel) in topical formulations are well
known, even when used at lower concentrations than the pharmacological
ones. Firstly, a high percentage amount is required to be effective.
Secondly, being insoluble at high concentrations, it provides poor
cosmetic properties to the formulations, which result to be thick and
difficult to spread over the skin. Finally, its solubilisation by
adequate chemical methods (e.g. neutralisation) brings to loss of
Azelaic acid content during shelf life, as it decarboxylates. In order
to overcome these problems a new molecule, Potassium Azeloyl
di-Glycinate, has been produced. It exhibits very high water solubility,
amphyphily, high specific activity at low concentration, low toxicity
and adequate chemical stability and compatibility. Serial cosmetic
efficacy essays have been carried out with informed volunteers. The
preliminary results are very interesting. It proved very effective as
skin whitening agent and sebum normalizer. In addition, other skin
parameters like moisturization and some elastic properties show
remarkable improvements. As far as applications are concerned, a
pre-systematic study on all the cosmetic functionalities has identified
the most proper cosmetic forms for preparing topic formulations.
Finally, complete formulations have been developed, in order to use the
sebum normalising and skin lightening properties of this new raw
material.