Azeloyl-Glycine: a new active in skin disequilibrium

The dermatological uses of Azelaic acid are related to its anti-sebhorreic, anti-mycotic and anti-acne properties. However, its limits (insolubility, tacky feel) in topical formulations are well known, even when used at lower concentrations than the pharmacological ones. Firstly, a high percentage amount is required to be effective. Secondly, being insoluble at high concentrations, it provides poor cosmetic properties to the formulations, which result to be thick and difficult to spread over the skin. Finally, its solubilisation by adequate chemical methods (e.g. neutralisation) brings to loss of Azelaic acid content during shelf life, as it decarboxylates. In order to overcome these problems a new molecule, Potassium Azeloyl di-Glycinate, has been produced. It exhibits very high water solubility, amphyphily, high specific activity at low concentration, low toxicity and adequate chemical stability and compatibility. Serial cosmetic efficacy essays have been carried out with informed volunteers. The preliminary results are very interesting. It proved very effective as skin whitening agent and sebum normalizer. In addition, other skin parameters like moisturization and some elastic properties show remarkable improvements. As far as applications are concerned, a pre-systematic study on all the cosmetic functionalities has identified the most proper cosmetic forms for preparing topic formulations. Finally, complete formulations have been developed, in order to use the sebum normalising and skin lightening properties of this new raw material.